“Yam” is the Sanskrit word for twin, and scholars believe that the Yamuna got her name because she runs parallel to the river Ganga (Vedic Index of Names and Subjects). The Yamuna is the Ganga’s twin, and is the second largest tributary of the Ganga. The river also accounts for most of Delhi’s water supply; about 70% of the water in the city is sourced from the river. The river begins at the Yamunotri glacier, flowing 1,376 km, and joining the Ganga at Triveni Sangam.
There are many stories along the Yamuna’s journey; many people, myths, and legends that are deeply intertwined with her waters. Here is a selection of five points along the river starting from the origin point of Yamunotri to our city.
Garwhal, Uttarakhand
The Yamuna starts her life at Yamunotri which is located on the slopes of the Banderpunch mountain range. Quite literally, Banderpunch means monkey’s (bander) tail (punch). The name comes from a legend involving the monkey god, Hanuman.
When I did my initial research and first learnt about this, I was very excited. During my childhood, I remember multiple instances where the monkeys in our neighbourhood would come visit our home. They would be met with a combination of shrieks, giggles, and an occasional banana. Because of these interactions, I had, and still do have, a soft spot for the banders so Hanuman was also a bit of a favourite of mine.
The story of how this mountain range got its name goes back to the epic Ramayan. During a particularly gnarly battle between Lord Ram and Ravana in Lanka, Hanuman’s tail caught fire. The legend goes, that he flew around till he got to this mountain range. Once there, he was able to extinguish the flames on the icy peaks.
Sirmaur District, Himachal Pradesh
Paunta Sahib was founded by the Sikh Guru, Shri Guru Gobind Singh Ji. I have never visited here, but I’ve always wanted to. “Paon” means feet, and “tikka” means stable. This was the place the wandering guru stopped, where he decided to stay for years. Isn’t there something beautiful about this mighty river too, traveling to Paonta Sahib, watering the city and steadily flowing on?
Starting at the Tajewala Barrage, (or originally the Hathni Kund Barrage) in Yamuna Nagar District, Haryana
This is a canal that still provides water to residents of present-day New Delhi. It has undergone many changes and rebuilds, but it was originally constructed by Firoz Shah Tuglaq in 1335 CE. It silted over in the mid-1700s and was rebuilt by the British during the colonial period. Since then, it was revived once more after India gained independence. This one canal, and its barrages (a type of dam), has been carrying water to the capital for hundreds of years but also contains the political history of India within it.
Wazirabad, northwestern perimeter of the New Delhi
This barrage is often considered the entry point of the Yamuna into the city. The water in the first stretch of the Yamuna, often referred to as the Upper Yamuna, is of relatively good quality until it reaches the Wazirabad Barrage. As the river flows through the city, past Wazirabad and travelling up to the Okhla Barrage, fifteen drains discharge waste into her waters, drastically harming the water quality.
Okhla, southeastern perimeter of New Delhi
This barrage was built about a hundred and fifty years ago and today also holds the Okhla Bird Sanctuary. On one particularly sunny morning this spring, my mother packed us some classic tomato sandwiches, and we set off to explore the area. At first glance, the barrage just appears to be another busy multi-lane road. As you drive down the road through the metal railing posts whizzing by, you glimpse lush blue green water. The bird sanctuary is peaceful, and as you enter the gates, you are transported out of the city into a silent cool abyss. The water is calm, the trees lightly sway, and the only movement you see is different birds flitting by.
Afterwards, as you drive down the other side of the road, all you see is a dry riverbed. The water has been held on the other side for the city to use. This side is filled with grass, cowherds with their grazing flock, and perhaps one solitary fisherman in a shallow, narrow stream.